Surfs up
After a large tropical storm and some flash floods along the local rivers, I woke up around 8 and walked to the village in search of a surf instructor. An hour later I was walking to Playa Grande with Manual. Manual drew a surf board in the sand and showed me the propper position for paddeling and for jumping up to catch a wave. We were in the water for about 2 hours, and by the end I was able to stay standing up on about 3 out of 4 waves. Please keep in mind these waves were all of 2 feet high (I only like the big ones). I thoroughly enjoyed myself and definitely plan on renting a board in Brazil to practice my skills.
On a side note, the wind and storms from the previous night caused larger waves than normal. As a result, I endured several wipe-outs. Despite lathering up in 45 spf sunblock I found my shoulders and back absolutely toasted by the end of the lesson. My theory is that all the sand churned up by the waves came and slowly scrubbed away my sunscreen. I rarely burn so I'm not terribly red, but let's just say I'm not looking forward to wearing a backpack tomorrow.
I am taking a water taxi to Jaco tomorrow morning and from there I will take a bus to Manual Antonio to visit the wildlife reserve.
I changed the settings for this blog so now you all should be able to leave a comment without having to sign up for a blog account.
On a side note, the wind and storms from the previous night caused larger waves than normal. As a result, I endured several wipe-outs. Despite lathering up in 45 spf sunblock I found my shoulders and back absolutely toasted by the end of the lesson. My theory is that all the sand churned up by the waves came and slowly scrubbed away my sunscreen. I rarely burn so I'm not terribly red, but let's just say I'm not looking forward to wearing a backpack tomorrow.
I am taking a water taxi to Jaco tomorrow morning and from there I will take a bus to Manual Antonio to visit the wildlife reserve.
I changed the settings for this blog so now you all should be able to leave a comment without having to sign up for a blog account.


5 Comments:
I do not care what anyone says, but two foot or twenty foot wave, to stand up on a surfboard is a challenge in both. I was shock to hear that there are two San Jose’s in the world (HAHA). The fact that you were able to see monkeys up close in personal is only something I have experienced watching the Animal Planet (there I said it). It seems that you have started off the trip great so far. I enjoy your writing style, so keep up the blog. Have fun!
Keep it real,
JR
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John R. Frankfurt, at 3:46 AM
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John R. Frankfurt, at 3:50 AM
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John R. Frankfurt, at 3:53 AM
Hey Jase! the way you set everything up on your website looks great! i'm finally checking it all out!
just got back from a fantastic week in oregon
(i miss my walking buddy- i'm going to have to go solo today!!!)
also- about the sunscreen, be sure you are letting it soak in for 20 mins before you go in the water or the sand....
good luck surfing in brazil! i'll be thinking about you and will check in on your page!!
xo
al pal
By
Anonymous, at 10:06 AM
Wow! This is amazing... so wedding planning might be fun but there is no way it can ever top what you are doing. I am so glad you are loving every minute of it, bug bites and all! Keep up the great stories and I hope you are taking lots of pictures... it will be the closest I will get to your experience and even better than the Discovery Channel!
We love you, Kristin and Aaron
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Anonymous, at 3:30 PM
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